Vintage Library: Designing Women by Margeretta Byers

Another vintage find too cool to keep to myself. This book is subtitled “The Art, Technique and Cost of Being Beautiful” and is from 1938. And is available, for free, from archive.org (here).

“Today clever women build wardrobes as carefully as architects build skyscrapers.” This is more of a style guide than a sewing guide, and some of the advice is (obviously) very period specific, and the value of hard and fast rules about what to wear is questionable, but it is thorough and has tons of things that I hadn’t thought of. How to hide my big feet?! Um, yes please! It also breaks down styles in an interesting way (exotic, gamine, patrician, romantic, coquette, sophisticate) and gives examples. Turns out my style preferences are gamine + sophisticate, which was fun to find articulated in this way. My colors and styling preferences are even outlined, much to my surprise, very accurately in these descriptions! This has info on designers of the era, too. And the ever important, ever difficult trick of balancing all of these style and fashion tricks with the day to day reality of (dum dum DUM) the budget. Lots of pages devoting to budgeting here. It’s kind of like Style Statement with all the hippie frou frou self-helpiness drained out of it replaced with budget sense and practicality. I’m definitely enjoying the read!

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Vintage Sewing Library: Elizabeth Blakely’s Practical System for Drafting. And Dracula.

So I recently considered bidding on a hard copy version of Elizabeth Blakely’s The Practical System for Drafting Ladies’ and Children’s Clothing from, oh, 1907 or so. It went for a higher price than I was willing to pay because, well, we hoarders gotta practice some kind of selectivity once in awhile if we wanna have money for sewing with cotton bag pamphlets.

Much to my satisfaction, it’s available on archive.org for free. Both volumes! Part 1 is (here) and part 2 is (here). What’s that you say? Yawn. Edwardian/turn of the century fashion just isn’t your thing?

Then clearly you: a) did not grow up in the 90s wanting to be Mina Harker or b) you need a visual refresher romp through Eiko Ishioka’s swoonworthy interpretation of the era to remind you of its glorious kinkified potential. Apparently a huge part of the film budget went to elaborate costume design; the idea was that the clothing should tell a story in itself. Let me just put these right here:

Meet our heroine / dream version of our prettier, better dressed self.
Meet our heroine / dream version of our prettier, better dressed self.
Meet her bestie, another woman who we wouldn't mind changing places / wardrobes with.
Meet her bestie, another woman who we wouldn’t mind changing places / wardrobes with.
Girl meets exquisitely pleated dress.
Girl meets exquisitely pleated seafoam colored dress.
Power dressing circa 1890.
Power dressing circa 1890.
But let's not forget about Lucy, our lady in the streets/freak in the sheets who has the BEST lingerie collection in the British empire.
But let’s not forget about Lucy, our lady in the streets/freak in the sheets who has the BEST lingerie collection in the British empire.
Work it, girl.
Work it, girl.Behold the power of embroidery. BEHOLD.
Poor Keanu is the most vanilla boring character in this movie. But I'd rock his look.
Poor Keanu is the most vanilla boring character in this movie. But I’d rock his look.
Enter the prince. *Swoon*
Enter the prince. *Swoon*
Some version of this scenario happens in 97% of my sexual fantasies.
Some version of this scenario happens in 97% of my sexual fantasies.
Blah blah blah our clothes should have 3,000 babies.
Blah blah blah our clothes should have 3,000 babies.
And I kind of forget the rest of the movie after this point. Denouement. Redemption and shit. Let's just pretend it ends here, yes?
And I kind of forget the rest of the movie after this point. Denouement. Redemption and shit. Let’s just pretend it ends here, yes?

I think me and my Mrs. Blakely text need a cold shower.